So this is jet lag

I've been back in the states for a little over a week now, and I still feel like the walking dead. I somehow made it through training in DC, saw the babies Brunner and Winkler, and came back home for some sleep.

I will update the blog soon, and post pictures which I'm sure is what everyone really wants to see on here. But first a little more sleep...

Nepalese National Forest

The past 2 days have been tiring, but awesome. Yesterday morning after breakfast we got in these wooden canoes that were basically long rectangular boxes. They rocked more than a novice crew boat and our seats were these little wooden stools that weren't all that comfortable but kept your bum from getting wet. We floated down the river for about an hour and a half--it was very relaxing and scenic (except for the part where a bird shat on me), and we say 2 crocodiles!!! They are fish eating crocodiles and have evolved so that they have this really long (2-3 feet) skinny skinny snout. We got out of the canoes and climbed up the bank and then split into two groups with our guides for our forest walk.

we trekked through tall grasses, lush forest, and wetlands for about 3 hours in the morning, and saw a few monkeys, a handful of spiders, some elephants on patrol (the military has bases and outposts in the national forest and they try to prevent poachers), and lots of fresh rhino and tiger footprints.

Our guides were excellent--pointing out birds and prints, but the going was tough. We were practically forging our own path, and the grasses were dense and vicious. There were also leeches (which I thought was odd since we weren't trekking through water), and our guides had given us salt to sprinkle in our socks to help repel them. unfortunately, dad got like 6 leech bites and they were just gushing blood because of the anti-coagulant that the leeches inject, but he insists that they didn't really hurt or itch and they seem to be healing up nicely now.

We stopped by a log over a stream to eat our box lunches, and then trekked on for another hour or two. Because of the time of year and height of the grass (7-8 feet, easily) we didn't really get to see any animals, but we were prepared. If a rhino charges at you you're supposed to climb 2 metres up a tree, run in zig zags changing direction every 4 metres, or at the very least hide behind a tree.

At the end of the hike we crossed the river again, in even more precarious canoes, and arrived at our "hotel." The rooms were in rows and were basic, but clean, with mosquito nets and fans. There was a "restaurant" area--a covered patio with a table, and one toilet and one shower stall. A shower never felt so good... when we were hiking it was approx. 100 degrees and 85% humidity, and we were streaming sweat out of every pore. I felt like I was in a bikram yoga class, heavily clothed.

We had a few sodas and beers and just spent the rest of the afternoon and evening hanging out. We had a delicious Nepalese buffet dinner (very simple, rice, dhal, some curries, etc.), and I was in bed by 8:30.

In the morning we opted to take jeeps to our next stop and we bounced around local dirt roads past villages and farmers until we got to a bridge leading back to the national forest. we walked for about 30 minutes to get to the crocodile breeding center, but on the way our eagle eyed guide caught a glimpse of a rhino (it looked like a big rock) and we tiptoed into the forest a bit to see it. It was amazing... we got so close---maybe 200 feet--and watched it eat.

Rhinos are super dangerous---they kill more people than lions or elephants or crocodiles or any other animal here. However, this one was injured--it had deep gashes on its rear from a fight with another rhino--so it was seeking safety by grazing near some of the military buildings. It knew that humans wouldn't hurt it, and if it was close enough to human habitation the other rhinos wouldn't come bother it, so it just kind of ignored us, though its ears would prick up occasionally to make sure we weren't encroaching enough that it needed to act.

After this photo op we continued down the path to the crocodile breeding center and conservation area. There were big pens with crocodiles of all hatchling ages, including 1 of the man-eating crocodiles (looks more like a normal croc). Some of the crocs can grow to 21 feet or so (but we didn't see any like that).

a little further back, after following signs that say "orphan" and "tiger" we came to a huge wood pen (the fences were maybe 30 feet high) with a tiger in it. Its mother was a man-eater that killed 4 humans in 60 days. Apparently once tigers taste human they prefer it to all other prey, so it's not safe to leave them in the wild anymore (there are currently ~100 tigers in the wild in the forest). In trying to capture the mother it was unfortunately killed. They left the cubs to see if they could survive, but although they were old enough to attack humans their hunting skills weren't developed and two of the three cubs died in the wild. They were able to rescue the third, but it was dicey whether she would live. She survived and although they endeavored to return her to the wild they decided it was just too dangerous because of how aggressive she was towards humans, so they reluctantly decided to keep her in captivity.

It was sad to see her like that, but she completely freaked me out. I was standing kind of near the fence (which was wood slats with maybe 3/4 inch space at most between each one), and changing the setting on my camera when she jumped up towards the fence. I must have jumped a mile.

We left the park and road in the back of the jeeps which dated from the 2nd world war and remarkably still worked (they were open top and we sat sideways on the benches in the back). We wound through the countryside for over an hour before we got back to our hotel in the town.

After lunch we took an elephant ride through the jungle which was bumpy and lurchy and great. We were 4 to an elephant and rambled around for over an hour. We saw a peacock, some fish, some deer, and another rhino. The rhino don't seem to see the humans--just the elephants, so it just moved around and grazed as we shot a million photos.

We sat down by the river and had beers watching sunset at one of the many riverside restaurants (just a small building where they cook, and lots of chairs and tables down on the river bank). We were treated to dinner by the hotel in honor of the festival which just finished, and now I’m here, in the internet cafe, swarmed by little bugs.

Nepal has, on the whole, been wonderful. It’s calmer, cleaner, nicer, and almost imperceptibly cooler than India was. I was ready to call it quits a week ago, but I’m glad that wasn't an option because I would have missed all this.

Tomorrow we head to Katmandu, and then the trip is over!!! In 4 days I’ll be back in the states, which is kind of inconceivable.

This trip has made me turn mostly vegetarian... when you see the scrawny mangy chickens in the pens, or dead and hanging off bike handles, or when you see the goats and buffalos eating trash you think twice about eating a meat dish. There’s also the Buddha angle. I accidentally stepped on a snail and felt terrible. However, that's not to say that I’m not craving a huge steak as soon as I get home... and a margarita. The beer here is good, but a nice cold margarita on the rocks or blending, enjoyed in a/c, sounds splendid.

Anyway, hope all is well back home. I’ll be there soon for better and for worse.

On to Nepal!

It’s amazing what a border crossing can do... upon entering Nepal you feel like you can finally breathe again. Its subtle differences--the streets are slightly less crowded, somewhat cleaner, and some of the people's features are more Asian. If you didn't know (and hadn't spent an hour doing visa formalities--which was very efficient, so I’m not complaining), however, you could easily believe you were still in India. When we crossed over there was no marked change in dress, cows still amble in the roads and settle right in the middle for a nap, and passersby either wave jollily or stare as you pass by.

It’s just calmer somehow.

Getting there took nearly the 8 hours predicted, but it was pretty smooth sailing in fairly roomy SUVs (though we declined to pay $20 for the driver to use the a/c, so it was a bit dusty). The other car didn't take the road around a town that we did, and in going through they ended up stopped at an impromptu roadblock by a group of kids with a barrel in the road. after 10 minutes of arguing the driver was able to buy them off for 10 rupees (about 25cents) and they were on their way again.

8 hours in a car is kind of dull, but it's a great way to see the scenery without exerting yourself. Yesterday was the last day of the festival of lights, and people were winding down in jubilation. We frequently got stopped in traffic as hordes of chanting singing cheering people followed pickup trucks that were removing the huge gaudy statues of different gods that had been on display in big temple like tents all over town. The towns were all strung with lights and tinsel, and loudspeakers blasted a variety of Hindi music. I’m definitely deafer as a result.

When we arrived in Nepal, the border town was dead since it was a festival day there as well. Most of the shops were closed and we had to drive to three different hotels to find one that had a kitchen that was open and staff that could prepare meals. after a brief lunch and beer stop (no one had had a drink in the past few days since Varanasi is a holy city and you're not supposed to drink there, and I haven't drunk since Delhi since my stomach has been protesting everything except tea, soda, chocolate, toast, ice cream, and spaghetti), we headed on to our hotel. The further we got from the border town, the more "Nepalese" it became. There’s just more space here. Even when houses are crowded together they seem roomier, they seem tidier and less ramshackle. It’s not a huge difference, but it's discernible.

Our hotel in Lumbini was a gorgeous resort like place with a mango garden, a jogging track, a lotus pond, and a Buddha shrine. The rooms were spacious and well-appointed, though we had to pay $10 for a/c. It was so muggy; dad forked over the money immediately and it was splendid. It was definitely a rip-off though, since I’ve stayed in places for the amount just the a/c cost.

After a quick turnaround we jumped in rickshaws to visit the birthplace of Buddha. (I had taken a quick rinse off shower before we left, but within five minutes I felt just as dirty and grimy as I had before.) The rickshaws provided a nice breeze and we arrived at the park just before sunset.

The legend has it that Buddha’s mother was taking a swim in this pool/pond and when she got out she walked 25 steps and then squatted down and gave birth. the pool is still there (though it looks like it was probably refurbished) and the ruins of the village or wherever she was are still there--now housed under a cement and steel building to protect them from the elements I guess (which is kind of strange since these rocks and ruins are over 2000 years old and still there). There is a rock in a glass case with a spotlight and a sign that heralds it as the exact birthplace of Buddha.

There are a lot of trees in the park, including a very large one that supposedly Buddha sat under (but I think there are a lot of trees with that claim), and strings of prayer flags crisscross the whole garden. It’s a very serene and peaceful place. There is also a large building/temple with a typically tacky bronze statue of Buddha and brilliant frescoes on all the walls depicting Buddha lore.

Once we got back to the hotel my stomach decided to revolt again, in earnest this time, so I spent the rest of the night in the room and the bathroom. at 830 this morning we jumped in the private bus (intrepid was going to pay for public transport which would include 2 bus switches and over 5 hours travel time, so we forked over an additional $3 a person to hire the private bus). It was still cramped, but pretty much everyone had their own seat and it was much nicer than being crammed on public transport, though I have a suspicion that the Nepalese are probably kinder traveling companions than the Indians. Less pushy and starey.

We tumbled through the Nepalese countryside for 3 hours, and it was beautiful. Similar to India, but nicer. Lots of trees and rivers, and the beginnings of hills. We gained quite a bit of altitude and drove up an actual mountain before coming back down a ways into the national park area. All along the way you saw cows and buses with people crowded on top and some motorbikes, but it's far less dense and crowded than anywhere in India was.

The "highlight" was our toilet stop, at the top of the mountain. there was nowhere to hide really--we were at the edge of a cliff below, and a pretty steep mountain wall above so there was this one bush that kind of shielded me from our bus. however, our guide, the bus driver and the driver's 2 assistants (no idea why there were there other than to keep him company) wandered all over--clearly violating the western rules of staying on the other side of the vehicle. Public toileting is just so common here that it doesn't faze anyone. When the buses and cars drove by I felt compelled to hide my face--which is silly really, I mean, none of them will ever see me again, but it was just a very disconcerting experience.

The Nepalese seem to have an affinity for swings, because they are everywhere. some hang from doors, some from trees, and every couple of miles you would spot one made from a bunch of really long (like 30-40 foot) poles strapped together like a teepee with a swing hanging down below. It was so nice to see the kids playing and laughing.

We arrived at our hotel in Chitwan after about 3.5 hours, and we have cute little cabin like rooms. Pretty rustic, but nice. We’ll be here tonight, check out tomorrow for a 2 day trip into the park/forest, and then stay here again that 2nd night. Some people were cycling to an elephant breeding site this afternoon, but I’ve seen a lot of elephants and we're going on a 1.5 hour elephant ride day after tomorrow, so I decided to pass and shop/rest/internet instead. Tonight there is a cultural show at the hotel and tomorrow we head out early. I think we walk a total of about 10 km, we also go in canoes for a bit to try and see crocodiles, and we stay at a very basic hotel that only has 1 bathroom. Yikes! I hope my stomach cooperates.

Other than the stomach, however, I feel fine. I’m oddly rejuvenated just being in Nepal, and it might even be a few degrees cooler because there's so much shade. It’s still miserable and sweaty in the sun though... I can't wait for autumn back home.

I am reading a great book right now though, that perhaps would have prepared me more for India had I read it before I left... it's called "Holy Cow" and it's by Sarah McDonald--an Australian woman who moved to India to be with her fiancé who was the Australian broadcasting company's foreign correspondent there for a few years. She’s witty and funny and sarcastic (a bit like Bill Bryson), and describes things perfectly without being unjustly critical or romanticizing it. Highly recommend it for a fun light read.

Anyway, that's all for now. I’m going to go spend some Nepalese rupees. :-)

India continued...

I’m getting annoyed with our guide, and just India in general. I worry that I’m turning into that stereotypical American "why can't they do things the way we do things..." I’ve been travelling too long. I think what I’ve learned is that 4-5 weeks is my max, and I really shouldn't travel to hot hot countries. However, today was a good day.

This morning we got up and were on the river at dawn in a large rowboat. We cruised up the Ganges watching the morning rituals at the ghats. Basically there are wide stairs--almost like football stadium bleachers--leading down to the water all along the banks. Each has a different name, and many have different purposes--some are for bathing, some are for cremating, some are only for people of certain sects, some were built by the gov't, some by maharajas, etc. People come down and bathe in the water--some just splash water on; others fully immerse themselves and seem to have a ritual. They pray, or dunk their heads a certain number of times, etc. A few use soap, and it's kind of funny to see them sitting on the steps lathering up. (also kind of sickening since you know how dirty the water is and you want to stop them as they put handfuls of the water in their mouth to drink or clean their teeth).

No one is naked... they strip down to their "under-under clothes"... sometimes wrapping a separate piece of cloth, or washing under what they're wearing, etc.

We passed by a few of the cremation ghats: on one there were the smoldering remains, and an another a body wrapped in a white shroud was stacked with wood ready to be burnt. There was also a crematorium, and I think the guide said it's cheaper to be cremated in there than out on the ghats where they use wood.

I thought that maybe Varanasi is where the movie Water took place (but it turns out it was Benares, which isn't far), in any event, it’s a heartbreaking but beautiful movie set in the 1930s maybe, about widows in India. Caroline and I saw it last spring at an indie theater in Charlottesville and both left sobbing.

Anyway, this afternoon I had a traditional ayurvedic massage, and it was excellent. It started with oil being poured on my head, then a scalp massage, and then a brisk full body massage with different oil. Very relaxing--I feel great!

Spent the rest of the afternoon repacking and watching Goonies on TV, and at sunset we set off on a big rowboat again to watch the sun set and do a Hindu flower ceremony. At night people don't bathe at the ghats, but they pray and there is music and chanting and usually some sort of fire. While waiting for it to get dark enough, we saw a few river dolphins surface near us. They’re such strange creatures--they really resemble marlins more than regular dolphins, and supposedly they're blind.

Once it was dark, our boat crew lit hundreds of little candles and placed them in these little bowls made of leaves, filled with flower petals (bougainvillea I think). When you release the little bowl into the water you make a wish. Soon there were hundreds of these little jewels floating away down the river and it was beautiful. It was a lovely peaceful night, with cool breezes and it was a perfect way to end the India portion of the trip.

We headed back to the banks, shopped a little, and had dinner. Tomorrow we leave at 5am for an 8-hour drive to the border. From there we hop a bus to Lumbini, and sightsee and spend the night there. The next morning we head to the national park/forest for a 2-day walk, before heading to Katmandu.

I’m torn about India. I expected to love it, and I don't know if my expectations were naive or if I’m just not in the right portion of India, or not here long enough, or coming to it in the wrong frame of mind. I love certain things about it, and I’m glad I came, but it wasn't the life-altering voyage I kind of thought it might be... of course, if you want life altering I guess you don't go on a 2 week tour--you wind through the country on your own with no exit date in sight. You don't resist, you assimilate. Maybe next time...

Okay, off to scavenge food for the journey tomorrow.